![]() This is where the sandwich really comes into its own – as a perfect blank canvas for experimentation. Over the years, the sandwich has evolved somewhat, and most places offer variations topped with everything from pork belly to shrimp. In other words, you have to wolf your food down – exactly what your mother told you not to do. It needs to be eaten while the egg foo young is hot off the grill before the bread gets gummy. The piping hot egg combined with the sweet, fluffy white bread is a fast-track back to childhood. Paul – and then another, and a few more after that. Talking to these chefs finally got me off my culinary high horse to try my first St. Paul or a “special” with all of the available proteins piled on. “It’s one of many hangover cures for me,” said restaurateur Kristin Liu, whose family owned Chinese Gourmet Restaurant in Florissant from 1984 until it closed in 2017. “I mean, a fried egg patty on white bread?” he said. Paul in the 1980s at his family’s restaurant, China Wall, in Jennings, and for him the sandwich is a comforting reminder of days past. “We sell a lot of them,” said Qui Tran, co-owner of Mai Lee. ![]() Who wants eggs and mayo and lettuce and tomato together on white bread? But it works.” I’m all about the handheld, so fit me,” he said. The Midwestern executive chef Ben Welch has been eating them since he was a kid. But I kept hearing folks rhapsodizing about this seemingly impossible sandwich. The lettuce, tomato and pickle surely played the most cursory of supporting roles. I thought the white bread would immediately become soggy and distressed from the mayo and the grease from the egg foo young. He put an egg foo young patty (egg, bean sprouts, onion, flour) between a couple of pieces of white bread slathered with mayo, topped it with lettuce, tomato and pickles and named it after his hometown of St. ![]() Paul in the 1940s to please Midwestern palates. Unverified local legend has it that a Chinese-American chef in the city invented the St. Louis culinary fixation I’ve had the hardest time wrapping my head around is the St.
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